But times and tastes are changing, and many pubs seem to be struggling to keep up. There are regular reports of small town watering holes serving their last drinks, driven out of business by rising costs. Even well-established venues in larger regional centres are feeling the heat, with many facing difficult decisions about their futures.
At the same time, there are many examples of pubs achieving new heights of popularity, including here in Yarrawonga. More than just cornerstones of the local community, they have become must-visit destinations, bringing in visitors from far and wide.
So, this begs the question, how are country pubs really doing?
From Punter to Epicurean: The Changing Face of the Average Pub Patron
The early 1990s saw a seismic shift for Victorian country pubs, with the passing of the Gaming Machine Control Act 1991. This meant that, for the first time, pubs could install pokies, and many embraced this new, lucrative income stream. Gaming quickly became a staple of the country pub experience and created a new kind of loyal regular.
As gaming was legalised in New South Wales in the 1950s, towns along the border felt this change even more acutely.
Prior to the new legislation, Victorians with a penchant for the pokies had to cross the border to get their fix. And they would, by the busload, with coordinated ‘pokie runs’ transporting eager punters from across the state to pokie hotspots like Albury, Moama, Echuca, and Mulwala. The 1991 Act was expressly designed to stop this phenomenon and keep the substantial gambling tax revenue in Victoria.
The legislative changes had the desired effect, and pokie runs soon became a thing of the past. For twin towns like Yarrawonga, this meant the steady stream of cashed-up punters passing through rapidly dried up. However, the licensed venues that serviced them could now install their own pokies, which most chose to do.
This further reinforced their popularity with seniors, and many pubs and clubs tailored their offerings to suit the more mature clientele. The noise and lights of gaming machines were complemented with cheap counter meals and daily pensioner specials. The pub experience became about quantity and affordability.
This remained the norm for most country pubs until the late 2000s, when the gastropub movement began expanding out from Melbourne. Starting in popular tourist areas, like the Macedon Ranges, historic pubs began focusing on delivering boutique culinary experiences. The kitchen was the star attraction, and menus were packed with local produce and unique interpretations of pub classics.
Since then, this trend has continued to spread. Yarrawonga’s own Criterion Hotel is a prime example, with its contemporary menu, lakeside decks, and emphasis on social spaces. This updated take on the traditional pub formula offers patrons high-quality meals and unbeatable sunset views, not just cheap schooners.
Photo by Nico Smit on Unsplash
Evolution is the Key to Survival
Rising costs, ongoing staffing challenges, and the decline of traditional drinking culture are all having a major impact on country pubs. In combination, these challenges make the traditional ‘cost-conscious’ business model virtually unsustainable, forcing many ‘corner pubs’ to close their doors. However, they have also created significant opportunities for operators willing to invest in their offering and explore new approaches.
Yarrawonga’s Terminus Hotel is proof of how doubling down on delivering an experience can pay dividends. Already a local institution, the venue recently underwent a $1.75m renovation, with the extensive updates designed to retain the heritage aesthetic. Central to the project was the transformation of an unused back area into a beer garden now known as The Stables.
Formerly the hotel’s stable yard, the family-friendly space now features shaded seating, a fully stocked container bar, and a playground. In addition to increasing the pub’s footprint, this thoughtful addition has created an activity hub for the community. One they have embraced fully, with The Stables now a popular meeting spot for locals and visitors alike.
The Rise of the Home Bar
There is one challenge even the most innovative of publicans cannot overcome: the ever-increasing cost of beer. While there is currently a temporary freeze on the excise applied to draught beer, prices remain at record highs. With many Victorians now paying around $15 a schooner at their local, casual pub visits have become an occasional treat.
As a result, those who enjoy an evening beer have found themselves looking closer to home for a cost-effective alternative. Iconic Australian brand, Coopers, is helping drinkers bridge the gap between professional pub and home bar. Coopers homebrew beer has become a staple for those wanting the pub-quality taste without the hefty price tag.
What Does the Future Hold for the Country Pub?
Are country pubs thriving? Some of them. And the key to their success seems to be creativity and a willingness to adapt to changing public tastes and market conditions.
The old ‘beer and pokies’ model is no longer sustainable, and those clinging too tightly to it are fading away. Patrons are looking for more than just a place to drink; they want an experience. They want a place that feels special, with good food and a great atmosphere.
Importantly, a country pub needs to reflect the community it serves. To embrace its unique identity, celebrate its produce, and provide spaces for locals to gather and connect. For places that can do that, evolve alongside their community, the future looks bright.
